THE RISE OF FAST FASHION:
A Timeline of Transformation and Its Implications for a Sustainable Future
Photo by Karina Tess on Unsplash
Over the past few years, the line between what we know as ‘Fashion’ and ‘Fast Fashion’ has become increasingly blurry. We like to think of Fashion as more of a reflection of culture, an art form and truly creative expression of the designer (in our case the artisans and tailors) and then in turn the people who wear the designs as a proud expression of self.
Fashion has always been a mirror, reflecting the complexities of society, and evolving in tandem with cultural shifts. Over the past few decades, the rise of fast fashion has proven a prominent phenomenon, but with growing scrutiny on its societal and environmental impacts, it’s clear we must question what the future should hold for the fashion industry.
At Cloth & Co. we believe that Fashion has the potential to be a significant driving force behind positive change, especially when it comes to mitigating the social and environmental impact of the industry, it’s the force behind everything we do.
Here’s a brief history of how we got to where we are today. We wonder if we can wind back the clock as it's a seemingly short period of time for such dramatic change.
THE BIRTH OF FAST FASHION
The roots of fast fashion are deeply intertwined with globalisation and technological advancement. In the 1960s, ‘Boutique Revolution’ heralded the shift from haute couture to ready-to-wear fashion ^1. Fast forward to the 1990s, and retailers like Zara and H&M have begun to change the game. They demonstrated that a quick turnaround from design to retail was not only possible but also immensely profitable ^2.
Overproduction and overconsumption created a demand for more raw materials to keep up the supply, the fabric industry was booming. Invented in the 1930’s, for a few years, polyester took a back seat to the development of nylon - but was introduced to the American public in 1951. It was marketed as a “magic” fabric that needed no ironing and was extremely wrinkle-resistant. It was also cheap to produce and could keep up with the demand.
THE PHENOMENON OF FAST FASHION
"Unfortunately, the rise of fast fashion has also led to some severe and detrimental impacts. With more than 70% of all garment production being synthetic, mainly petroleum-based polyester and nylon which requires equally toxic chemical dyes to bond with the polymers."
THE DARK SIDE OF FAST FASHION
Unfortunately, the rise of fast fashion has also led to some severe and detrimental impacts. With more than 70% of all garment production being synthetic, mainly petroleum based polyester and nylon which requires equally toxic chemical dyes to bond with the polymers.
Many synthetic textile dyes used today, like the notorious azo dyes, are carcinogenic. Although these dyes are banned in the EU and some other nations due to their toxicity, they are still commonly used in fast fashion clothing produced in parts of the world. A great read on this is a book authored by Alden Wicker “To Dye For”
Environmental Impact - The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of annual global carbon emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined ^6. Moreover, a single cotton shirt requires 2,700 litres of water to produce – equivalent to what an average person drinks over two and a half years ^7. In terms of waste, a staggering 85% of all textiles go to the dump each year ^8.
Societal Impact - On the human side, the fast fashion model has often been criticised for poor working conditions in factories. Notably, the 2013 Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh, which claimed 1,134 lives, starkly revealed the industry's hidden costs ^9.
SHOP OUR 100% RECYCLED CASHMERE COLLECTION HERE
THE FUTURE OF FASHION: SUSTAINABILITY
As we look to the future, the fashion industry must fundamentally shift towards sustainability to mitigate these negative impacts.
Sustainable Practices - This includes using organic and natural fibre materials, implementing ethical production practices, and reducing waste throughout the supply chain. We are continually looking for ways where what we do is not only causing no harm, but actually doing good. Regenerative is a practice that we believe will make the greatest impact.
Consumer Awareness - A recent survey showed 66% of consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable brands ^10. Encouraging this mindset can fundamentally alter demand and supply dynamics. Fashion brands can use their influence to educate consumers about the impact of their choices and encourage more mindful purchasing decisions. This can lead to reduced consumption and less wasteful behaviour.
Transparency and Traceability - Brands like us that are transparent about their supply chain practices can build trust with consumers and motivate other companies to follow suit.
Advocating a Slow Fashion Movement - This movement encourages a shift away from disposable, trend-driven clothing and promotes timeless, well-made pieces that are meant to be worn for a long time.
THE FUTURE OF FASHION: THERE’S HOPE
As we look to the future, the fashion industry must fundamentally shift towards sustainability to mitigate these negative impacts.
Sustainable Practices - This includes using organic and natural fibre materials, implementing ethical production practices, and reducing waste throughout the supply chain. We are continually looking for ways where what we do is not only causing no harm, but actually doing good. Regenerative is a practice that we believe will make the greatest impact.
Consumer Awareness - A recent survey showed 66% of consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable brands ^10. Encouraging this mindset can fundamentally alter demand and supply dynamics. Fashion brands can use their influence to educate consumers about the impact of their choices and encourage more mindful purchasing decisions. This can lead to reduced consumption and less wasteful behaviour.
Transparency and Traceability - Brands like us that are transparent about their supply chain practices can build trust with consumers and motivate other companies to follow suit.
Advocating a Slow Fashion Movement - This movement encourages a shift away from disposable, trend-driven clothing and promotes timeless, well-made pieces that are meant to be worn for a long time.This is a fast trip back in time, which also highlights the significant changes that have catapulted us into the unsustainable situation we are experiencing now. The fashion industry's influence on culture and trends gives it a unique opportunity to shape consumer behaviour and attitudes. We truly believe that championing sustainable practices, fashion can indeed pivot away from the devastating impact of throwaway, fossil-fuel-dependent garments and contribute to a more environmentally conscious and responsible world.
Cloth & Co. is proud to be part of this sustainable journey, crafting timeless pieces that respect both the women who make our clothes, the artisans and the environment. We hope you'll join us in choosing a more sustainable future for fashion.
For more information on our regenerative practices and timeless collections click here.
Authors: Co-founders, Caroline Poiner & Daisy Burgess
Co-founders, Caroline Poiner & Daisy Burgess
REFERENCES
1: Hines, Tony, and Margaret Bruce. "Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues." Routledge, 2007.
2: Tokatli, N. "Global sourcing: insights from the global clothing industry—the case of Zara, a fast fashion retailer." Journal of Economic Geography, 2008.
3: Sull, Donald, and Stefano Turconi. "Fast fashion lessons." Business Strategy Review, 2005.
4: Joy, Annamma, et al. "Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands." Fashion Theory, 2012.
5: Statista. "Market value of global apparel demand from 2005 to 2020, by segment." 2021.
6: UN Environment. "Putting the brakes on fast fashion." 2018.
7: WWF. "The Impact of a Cotton T-shirt." 2013.
8: Ellen MacArthur Foundation. "A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion's future." 2017.
9: Clean Clothes Campaign. "Rana Plaza: Three years on and still no change." 2016.
10: Nielsen. "The Sustainability Imperative: New Insights on Consumer Expectations." 2015.